Nirmal Purja and nine climbers missing after Pakistan avalanche

A ten-member international mountaineering team, including renowned Nepalese climber Nirmal Purja, is feared missing after an avalanche struck Pakistan’s Broad Peak, one of the world’s highest mountains, on Thursday. The 8,047-metre (26,400 ft) peak in the Karakoram range is among the most perilous climbing destinations, according to reports.

Purja, a former British Royal Marine and mountaineer known for climbing all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre-plus peaks in under six months in 2019, led the expedition. The team included five Nepalis, an American, a Chinese national, an Omani, and a Pakistani climber, according to statements from the Alpine Club of Pakistan. The avalanche occurred around midday on Thursday, severing all communication with the group. Rescue efforts are set to begin on Friday, contingent on weather conditions, with helicopters planned for deployment if possible.

Karrar Haidri, vice president of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, stated the organization is coordinating with authorities to mobilize resources for the search. “We are coordinating with the authorities and trying to arrange a helicopter rescue on Friday morning Pakistani time depending on weather conditions,” he said. The club also expressed solidarity with the climbers’ families, calling for their safe return.

Broad Peak, the world’s 12th highest mountain, is notorious for its treacherous terrain, including avalanches, crevasses, and the “death zone” above 8,000 metres, where oxygen levels are insufficient to sustain human life for extended periods. The mountain’s proximity to K2, widely regarded as the most dangerous peak due to its technical difficulty and unpredictable weather, underscores the extreme challenges faced by climbers. Recent reports highlight the dangers of the region, with other peaks like Annapurna I and Nanga Parbat also cited as among the most perilous in the world.

Purja’s climbing career began with a trek to Everest base camp in 2012, which he extended into a full ascent. His 2019 feat of summiting all 14 eight-thousand-metre peaks in 2019 earned him international acclaim, and he later starred in a Netflix documentary detailing the journey. The film, which chronicled his record-breaking attempt, brought his story to a broader audience. Purja, who joined the British Army in 2003 and became a Royal Marine in 2009, has since become a prominent figure in the mountaineering community.

The avalanche has reignited discussions about the risks inherent in high-altitude climbing. While Broad Peak is considered less technically demanding than K2, its altitude and unpredictable weather make it a formidable challenge. Climbers often rely on supplementary oxygen to navigate the “death zone,” a factor that Purja acknowledged in his own expeditions. The incident also highlights the logistical complexities of rescue operations in remote, high-altitude regions, where weather and terrain can delay critical interventions.

As search teams prepare to mobilize, the fate of Purja and his team remains uncertain. The Alpine Club of Pakistan has emphasized its commitment to the rescue effort, but the harsh conditions of the Karakoram range pose significant obstacles. For now, the focus remains on locating the missing climbers and ensuring their survival amid the unforgiving environment of one of the world’s highest mountains.